View Full Version : HAs anyone made their own wet/dry using a 55gallon
phillyofish
02-19-2009, 09:51 AM
I was planning on making 2 sumps, (1 for 4- 40s) and (1 for 2-75s, 2- 55s). I kiind of have an idea on how to, but want to see how you guys may have done so. I currently have wet/drys on my 150 and 125. but they are store bought. So if you got them let's see it. Thanks guys.
I used a 50Gal for my 180, 2 40 breeders, and a 75. I know, it's not big enough for all that water but my design works. What I did was bought a Ocean Wave II sump (I think that's the name) and cut it open, part of the top and the 1 front side. I placed that into the fifty. It was the cheapest way since I got the OC II used and cut it open since an OC II is no where's near big enough for all the water. I ran my drains into the top of the OC II, the dry section. I got the idea from a set up the Shark Aquarium uses to filter 800Gal's of water. He says it has no problem doing it, he put his OC II into a large vat maybe 200Gal vat. I also got 1/8" glass cut to size by a hardware store to make dividers in the 50. sorry, no pic's. It's an idea for you to think about anyway.
phillyofish
02-19-2009, 10:36 AM
Thanks,
I do have an old wet/dry that I can cannabalize. I want to set it up do the drains enter the side and feeds over the filter pad through pvc with slits to distribute the flow. what size pump do you run with it?
phillyofish
02-19-2009, 11:48 AM
here is a formula for calculating flow rate, I found it on http://www.cichlidmadness.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16653
The size of the pump all depends on the turnover duration you're trying to acheive...or in other words, the number of times you want the tank recycled per hour. I usually shoot for a little more power than I need, because even if you don't plan on installing anything in-line right now, its nice to have the option later....and you can always valve down the flow rate on the pump.
So...
The formula that I used is from Aquatic Systems Engineering, by Pablo Escobal.
The formula is supposed to determine "turn-over duration" or the amount of time necessary for all the water in a system to flow through a filter device, in this case an overflow filter. Example, if you have turnover duration of 1, it means it takes a full hour for all of the water in the tank to flow through the filter. If you have a turnover duration of 2, it means it takes two hours for all the water to flow through the device...thus a lower 'turnover duration' is desirable.
The following is the derivation that I used to obtain the formula that I employed...I simply solved for F, the necessary flowrate.
T = # hours "turnover duration"
F = flowrate of pump (GPH)
G = volume of system (gallons)
T = 9.2(G/F) <--(from the book)
F*T = 9.2*G
F = (9.2*G)/T
Thus, if you set the 'turnover duration' (T) as T=1 hour
F = (9.2*G)/T --> F = (9.2*G)/1
At 360 gallons:
F = (9.2*360)/1 = 3312 gallons per hour
Thus, if you set the 'turnover duration' (T) as T=1.5 hours
At 360 gallons:
F = (9.2*360)/1.5 = 2208 gallons per hour
I think the pump I'm using is a Mag1800. I use a system of ball vlv's to control the flow of the drains along with a bypass so if the pump is to much for the drains to handle, I can open the ball vlv for the bypass so the excess water flows back into the sump. The OW II has the drain at the top with a diverter whitch is just a round disc under the drain input.
Here is a site I found to be real informative on how to do a DIY sump, check it out.
http://www.melevsreef.com/29g/sump/design.html
phillyofish
02-26-2009, 11:08 AM
dont kow if a 55 will be enough for 4-40s, 2, 55s and 2- 75s (420 gallons). maybe I can have bio balls in 2/3rds of the tank length. just need to figure out placement of the tanks so the return is efficient. maybe I can have 2 returns to deliver sufficient flow. want to place the tanks close so i dont loose head pressure.
I have 2 returns in my larger tanks. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use 2 returns in the 40's.
You could run a sump using a 40Gal with all your tanks if you wanted to, it wouldn't be a good idea but, it's all in how you design your system. you will need to have adjustable drains using 1 elbow, a straight, another elbow, then your strainer. You will need ball vlv's and a bypass to divert excess pump water back to the sump. It's better to get an oversized pump and with the bypass you can do it. You will need 1 check vlv for each input to tanks also.
The smaller the sump tank, the less reserve you will have and the more times you will have to add water to the sump.
phillyofish
02-26-2009, 05:13 PM
my mistake, I was referring to having 2 return pumps to feed teh need.
bovsbaitboxes
02-26-2009, 09:55 PM
you have been to my house i have 6 20 6 10 and 2 55 running of a dyi 55 gallon wet dry sump filter all depends on the pump you will be using John
phillyofish
02-26-2009, 11:23 PM
what kind of pump. i might need to have 2-55s for the amt of water.
bovsbaitboxes
02-27-2009, 12:14 AM
look at pond pumps and let me know what you want I get deals since I am a landscaper an design pond let me know John (figure you want to turn the water at least 5 to 6 times an hour)
phillyofish
02-27-2009, 12:40 AM
420 gallons
5 to 6 times/hr
so like 2500 gallons per hr.
or i could do mag 18 and a mag 12
bovsbaitboxes
02-27-2009, 12:59 AM
the mor times you change the tank the better I have been running about 300 gallons(including sump) with a 2000 ghp pump (gotta give a little for piping) and it has been fine for about 5 yrs (weekly water changes/monthly filter pad cleanings) I always say though if you have the money buy bigger so you can always hook up more tanks I am going with a pool filter that does close to 8000 gph and gonna run my whole house off of it
joe_jaskot
02-27-2009, 02:16 AM
Don't forget head pressure. For each foot you go up, 1 unit of head pressure, for each elbow in the system, 1 unit of head pressure, for each 8' of horizontal run, 1 unit of head pressures. The wider the diameter of piping you can run, the less resistance you will have and thus less head pressure. Always use a bigger pump than is necessary.
phillyofish
02-27-2009, 09:23 AM
i plan on using flex hose for returns which should reduce some of the pressure on the 90 degreee angles. trying to place tanks close and on 2 levels to minimize pressure loss. just trying to figure out cost savings of 1 larger pump or 2 smaller ones.
I'm running 390Gals with a Mag 1800, you need more. Why 2 smaller pumps? In case 1 breaks? It doesn't make sence to me, I'd go with the pond pump, 1 that can handle what you have and twice more. Believe me, I'm sorry I didn't start out with a much larger pump. I bought 1 but, haven't hooked it up yet. It's not an easy job to replace the Mag with this 1.
phillyofish
02-27-2009, 10:18 AM
I can use a Mag 24.
found this link:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/plumbing_faq.php
bovsbaitboxes
02-28-2009, 08:05 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/5000-GPH-Submersible-Fountain-Pump-KOI-COY-FISH-POND_W0QQitemZ220357630239QQcmdZViewItemQQptZOutdo or_Decor?hash=item220357630239&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
shouuld get a least 3000 gph at 4 foot rise and look at the price!!!!
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