can't get rid of this dreaded green tint

[adelphia4]

I have an 86 gallon tank with about 20 cichlids in it. right now i have an eheim canister filter on it but even with weekly water changes the tank holds a green tint to it. the water isnt really cloudy, but it just holds a slight haze if the lights are on for a while and it has a green tint to it. should i have two filters on the tank instead of just one? and im running the lights from 9am to 9pm. is that too much? i was thinking of using an algaecide but those chemicals get me nervous.

[Pete]

How much water do you change weekly?

Do you have plants in the tank?

Are the there to look at the tank for the full 12 hours the light is on?


Answer these 3 qns and we can probably give you some ideas. In the meantime, forget the algaecide.

[adelphia4]

i try to change around 15% of the tank weekly. I have plants in the tank but they're artificial. im usually working or at school, so i cant observe the tank for the full 12 hours while the light is on. But i have the timer set up to run from 9am to 9pm. when i had my old 45 gallon tank with a normal light i had this problem too. now i upgraded to an 86 gallon tank with a salt water dual light set up. it has an HID look to is. One light is a crisp white light and the other is a purple light. i can post some pictures if that helps.

[Dylz]

turn filter off. do a 90-95% change ( i would remove fish and take out all the water and decorations and start fresh, but lets say you cant) clean inside of glass thoroughly also take out any rocks, decorations ect. and clean them well. if you have a python hose clean substrate as well, fill tank and prime. turn filter on. next week do the same thing but with 50% water change. also try turning light off as much as possible. this should work :thumb:

[Pete]

I think if I wasn't there, I wouldn't have the light running - it's sucking power and you're getting no benefit from it, it's likely to be contributing to your problem, and the fish certainly don't need the light.

I'd probably set the light to come on late afternoon, maybe 4pm and still go off 9pm. If this alone doesn't help, step up the water changes to a higher percentage.

I wouldn't immediately go from 15% to 90%. Maybe 50% then the 90% the following week then get on a regular schedule again but changing more of the water. Depending on stocking level and how much you feed, perhaps 30% a week will be enough.

Personally the least I change is 50-60% on my ~320 gallon tank, the rest of my tanks get 75-90% weekly.

[Dylz]

pete is correct. 12 hours of direct light is causing an algae bloom, its also all about large water changes and your fish will thank you for it.

[adelphia4]

ok, i will definitely lower the time the light is on, and i will increase the amount of water i change. i only did 15 percent because i did not want to shock the fish. they can handle a 50% water change once a week without being stressed?

[fischfan13]

ok, i will definitely lower the time the light is on, and i will increase the amount of water i change. i only did 15 percent because i did not want to shock the fish. they can handle a 50% water change once a week without being stressed?

Your fish will thrive with a weekly 50% WC. As Pete said, he gives 75-90% weekly water changes. I have given my Tropheus and Mbuna twice-a-week water changes of 80-90% in the past with much success.

[Afreakin]

I would add a big sponge filter to the tank. One filter and a big water change may stress the bio.

[Heyguy74]

Just make sure to match ph and temp when doing a large water change. If you dont you can stress the fish alot.

[jackspratt]

My Nerite snail hard at work cleaning my algae. The rock in the back looked exactly like the one in front 2 weeks ago. If you look closely, you can see him at work by the Anubias plant.
Originally posted on www.tankscapers.com

[adelphia4]

thanks for the help guys. im cleaning my tank today. giving the plants and rocks a good cleaning and doing a 30% water change to start. i want to clean out my filter because it has a weak flow but i dont want to eliminate all of the filter bio. i have an extra fluval 304 but it needs some parts and i don't think its worth it to spend the $$ wen i can get a new filter for a little more

[Tony]

Some good advice on this thread. Biggest help will be cutting your light to a lower duration. My fish room only has partial lighting for 5 hour a day normally. Partial lighting meaning only 1 rack on (about 40 watts total lighting about 25 tanks). When I go into the room, I turn on additional lighting to work.

For your canister, rinse any biomaterial in dirty tank water and set it back in the tank (or in a bucket of dechlored water) to keep it wet and alive. So long as you have biomaterial, it's ok to go nuts on the sponges under the faucet with tap water. Theoretically, even if your filter was devoid of bacteria, your tank would probably be alright, based on the bacteria living on the tank surfaces and in the substrate.

Keep up with water changes and keep the light down and you'll be fine.

[adelphia4]

I would add a big sponge filter to the tank. One filter and a big water change may stress the bio.

what kind of filter do you suggest? i was thinking about putting another canister filter on it because they're nice and quiet but it's a little too pricey for me right now

[Tony]

When you consider cost (both initial and for replacement media), ease of maintenance, flowrates and reliability, it's tough to beat an Aquaclear.

[bassgenie]

Have you considered Mechanical UV Sterilizers such as the Turbo Twist or Submariner? Completely solved the "Greenish Tint" issues and it also kills a lot of Viruses and Bacteria. Some people swear by the Turbotwist, but Ive had good results with the Submariner 9 Watt.

[Pete]

UV shouldn't be necessary. The most likely culprits are water changes and duration of light - both being easy and cheap to change. I'd KISS and cheap before I jumped on an expensive band-aid.

[adelphia4]

thanks for all of the help guys. i did a 30% water change and cleaned out my eheim filter. it was really backed up which is why i want to put a second filter on the tank. i have a fluval 304 but it needs hoses and an attachment piece and media and in the end its $90 just to get the filter running. After the water change and filter cleaning tank looks a lot better. Im also going to buy an algae scraper to clean the walls up. i pulled out all of the plants and cleaned them but i didn't clean my rock. i noticed all of my rock has some fuzz growing off of it. Is this algae as well? how should i treat it?

[bassgenie]

I disagree that UV Sterilization is a "Band Aid". Id prefer to think of it as "Preventative Maintenance". I use them on all of my Primary tanks. I wouldnt know how to cure a disease because I havent had one in years. I prefer 9 watts for tanks below 100 Gallons. Its about "Dwell Time" more than wattage. UV Steralizers dismantle m75% of Bacteria and Viruses at the molecular level. One of the primary effects it has over prolonged use is the blocking of the reproductive cycle in many microorganisms. Its just a question about how you feel about your fish. Id rather pay a little more over time than have massive die outs and Quarantine tanks and algae bloom. It evens out in the long term.

[Pete]

I haven't had any big disease outbreaks either. UVs can only kill bacteria and viruses (or whatever) if the water harboring them actually passes through the UV. And even then the bulbs are only effective for 6 months or a year at most if you buy the more expensive ones.

I say UV is a band aid because it's treating a problem that's already built up. In a stable system, I don't see the need.

[bassgenie]

With all due respect. I know over the years theres been a lot of Vodoo Remedies and all cures. But I dont consider UV Sterilization to be that. Its been used in Professional settings and Major Aquariums for years. Its proven. Its replacing something that naturally occurs in nature. I still believe in the principals of Maintenance. You are correct that the bulbs only last 6 months. But they are $10 bucks each, and $20 a year is a small price to pay to give my fish an additional layer of protection. As I said its about prevention. Were confining them in a tight space. Its good practice to try to keep it as clean as possible. I found the Submariner 9 watt did the trick.

[Pete]

Aquarium stores use UV because their large centralized systems are unstable - they have fish entering and leaving all the time but I still question their effectiveness even in these settings.

You say "small space" and "clean as possible" and "replacing something nature does" and I say: exactly, this is why large water changes are effective. I spend much more than $20 a year changing water, it's not about money.

[bassgenie]

Well again, its all about preference. I too change my water frequently in my tanks. At the same time, this Technology is Scientifically accepted and works. UV Sterilization in Aquariums is just one way its used. NASA uses it to purify the air on rocket ships and space stations. But, its also used in Nail Salons to kill nail fungus. As I said, its about preference because the technology is proven and its validity for killing Germs, Fungus, Parasites, Etc. is unquestionable. Now is it overkill to run it continuously? Perhaps, but again preference. I found that the Submersible units were a lot easier to use.

[zcfish]

I had used UV in my tanks. Not sure about the benefit of killing bad bugs but it did make my tank crystal clear. IMO it is very effective for cloudy water.

[cichfrk]

My brother had this same big problem with his 75-gallon tank. When I saw his tank, the water is almost green in color. I told him to cut back on lighting. Also, consider changing the placement of the tank if it receives a lot of light from a window. Most importantly, I asked him to replace the foam in his canister filter with brand new ones. He added some polishing pads too. He did everything and had a huge change in the quality of his tank water.

If you feel like your canister filter its not efficient, adding a HOB filter would be beneficial because it adds water circulation and serves as a backup filter.

UV sterilizers are also very effective in my experience but I would consider it as a last resort. Good luck and hope this helps.

[adelphia4]

hey guys, sorry for the delayed response. my computer screen took a crap and i had to have apple replace it. $2,500 6month old macbook pro and the screen broke?! good thing there's a warranty haha. my tank has been a lot better looking from doing 50 percent water changes and only lighting it 5 hours a day. however i still noticed im getting a type of fuzz growing on my rocks and im not sure what it is. im also buying a fluval 304 for 50 bucks off my friend, and it just needs the top piece for the hose. that way on my 86 gallon tank ill have my eheim canister filter and the fluval 304. im guessing that rock fuzz is algae?

[bassgenie]

Yes, its algae growing on the rocks. Mbuna like to nibble on it so youll be fine. I let it grow on my rocks because the fish eat it and it naturally occurs in nature. I just hate when It clouds the water. The 304 should do the trick. Just make sure to lubricate the seals and itll last forever...