Substrate

[markm]

Here we go with the questions. I noticed in alot of the photos people are using sand as a substrate. I have read on other sites that sometimes you can get "dead spots" of bacteria in the sand which can wipe out an entire tank in a couple of days. Is that true? What substrate do you use? Is coral ok? Other than a BB what is the easiest to maintain? :coz:

[Afreakin]

You can get dead spots in the sand which will cause ammonia to form. It will only be released when the sand is disturbed. It will be released in the form of a gas bubble. If you regularly clean or at the very least rake through the sand that will never happen. Lack of maintenance is the culprit. IMO :becky:

[dbondi]

go with sand. It looks the best imo, and almost every fish loves it. It seems to be easier on the fish as well.

I put the carribsea ivory coast mix in my 220g and I wish that I had used sand. My 55g is arragonite sand. Its also good because say if you have one fish that doesnt require sand, but then you want to change the tank to say sand sifters and other tangs like that, you dont have to switch out the substrate. If my 220 had sand, it would be a tang tank. The 175lbs of expensive substrate is the only thing stopping me from doing the switch.

[markm]

Does arragonite change the water chemistry at all?

[joe_jaskot]

Does arragonite change the water chemistry at all?Aragonite will elevate the pH level and increase the hardness level of the water.

[mack74]

I use both sand and crushed coral. They do love the sand but it can damage your filters. The + about the coral is it keeps your ph up and you don't have to keep it in your filters then. I am really in the middle on which I like best.

[joe_jaskot]

As Mack said, sand and power filters don't mix. Personally, I hate sand. However, some fish do require it.

[markm]

Great!, when I decide which fish I'll be keeping that will dictate which substrate should be used. Excellent info everybody THANKS!!!!!! Do those ehiem prefilters work?

[fischfan13]

Great!, when I decide which fish I'll be keeping that will dictate which substrate should be used. Excellent info everybody THANKS!!!!!! Do those ehiem prefilters work?

The prefilters work great. As a matter of fact you can hook up a prefilter to any type filter...even AquaClears.

[SCMomof2]

I use aragonite and coarse sand. (Both are recommended for African Cichlids).

We do tank 50% tank changes each month, filter changes every 3 weeks, fresh carbon in the trays, complete scrubs on the Emperor 400 (2 on a 55 gal).

These guys enjoy the shells of substrate and dig like dogs. LOL!

It's fun...I'm okay with it. I've had no trouble with what you're asking about. I have been told though that bio-wheels or some form of bio balls need to be in the filtration to keep the good bacteria (healthy) working to do its job. I've also been told that overfeeding your fish will cause the ammonia problem also.

[bleeder guy]

I am just getting back into the hobby after 20 years. Having forgotten a lot and there is a lot of new info available. I set up a 75 living room tank using 80 lbs of CaribSea African Cichlid "large" substrate. This stuff is rough and sharp. I am going to keep your average Malawi's in it. My 12, two inch long, mixed Malawi's pick at the crumbled up flake food in the substrate. As they get larger it will be interesting if they feed this way. I am using a Marineland Emperor 400 with bio-wheels for a filter.
If I did it a again using the same large substrate I think I would add 1/3 CaribSea coarse sand to it.

[triscuit]

I am just getting back into the hobby after 20 years. Having forgotten a lot and there is a lot of new info available...

Well, yes, and there's a lot if misinformation available online as well. :rant: A few things to clarify regarding dissolution chemistry...

1. Buffering substrates do not dissolve quickly enough to maintain hardness with regular water changes. After the initial dust and surface particles dissolve, it will take much longer to achieve a bump in pH or KH or GH. I recommend getting a substrate you like the look/price of- and don't expect it to provide proper water chemistry for you.

2. Gases freely diffuse into water- a pocket of ammonia building up is kinetically impossible. Having gas pockets in your sand is neither good nor bad, it is just inevitable, and is composed of very similar gasses that are dissolved in your water. Good tank maintenance and stirring your substrate regularly will keep your nitrogen cycle in check irrespective of the bubbles.


:nerd:

[markm]

Thanks Triscut!

[bleeder guy]

Thanks for the info. Interesting it is what I'd call old school. That is how I use to do it.

[markm]

If the chosen species doesn't require sand it sounds "safer" to use either gravel or arrgonite. Correct?

[Flareside]

not to nitpick, but something important to note, and Triscuit touched on this briefly in her reply:
The + about the coral is it keeps your ph up and you don't have to keep it in your filters then.

If you are choosing coral for the above stated advantage, you will most likely be disappointed. I grew up old school, and that was the rule back then, but over the years I have found it to be simply untrue. I now have a lot of tanks with sand, and some still with coral and dolomite- water chemistry is the same.

Choose the substrate based on what you like the best and what would allow the species you are keeping to exhibit more natural behaviors.

If you have sand sifters, or featherfins, they like to sift and build large nests in the sand. If you have large malawians they will dig and burrow in either coral or sand.

Choose what you think they will thrive in, and sit back and enjoy them. Cichlids are a hardy fish. They are strong and forgiving of things like maintaining the "perfect ph". Unless your tap's ph is way off, dont even worry about the little things and just enjoy your fish.